Being the third best restaurant in the world (3 spots ahead of Alinea) and having 2 Michelin stars, Mugaritz had a lot to live up to. However, after a very disappointing dinner at Akelarre and a very good albeit overhyped lunch at Etxebarri, expectations were a bit tempered. That said, what I did expect in terms of the style of the food was very misinformed.
The Garden
I was expecting a lot of modern flashiness and novelty knowing chef Aduriz apprenticed at el Bulli, but I quickly learned that his vision for Mugaritz is focused on simplicity and regionality. The first sign of Mugaritz’s ethos was the garden where they grow their own herbs and vegetables. Later during the meal when we were taken into the kitchen, one of the chefs informed us that 90% of their ingredients are sourced within a 1 or 2 hour drive and that every dish has a maximum of 2 or 3 ingredients.
Overall, the meal at Mugaritz was a good one. It was better than Akelarre, but was it better than Alinea, Avenues, Ria, Gelonch (post to come), or DiverXO? In my opinion: no. In keeping with the spirit of Mugaritz, each course is presented here simply with its description as written on the menu.
Grilled pueraria focaccia.
Olives, beans, and thyme as a tapa.
Toasted legume beer.
Chive flowers in tempura.
A mouthful of flowers, dried fruits, and salt grains.
Starch and sugar crystal spotted with pepper praline and corals.
Crunchy sauce with peppers.
bulgur soft drink. Impregnated fresh pickle and the aromas of gin and juniper berries.
Fig, cooked in clay and the scent of tonka beans.
Fragrant fruit in a paper wrap.
Threads of steamed sea anemone with bone marrow…to dip the bread.
Fresh herbs. Mortar soup made of spices, seeds, and fish broth.
Pork noodles with “arraitxiki” extract and toasted rice.
Silky bread stew, infused with pink geranium leaves covered with crabmeat.
Hazelnut and bean stew.
Portion of hake and milky reduction of stewed turnip sprouts. Citric cream and salt grains.
Textures of coral fish.
Bonito belly, grilled on its own skin. Baby green peppers and almond paste.
Iberian pig tails and the reduction of its own juice. Crispy sweet millet leaves.
A cup of chamomile dressed with a cocoa nectar. Candied fruits from the market.
Sweet grain biscuit with anise and flowers.
A crisp of flax seeds and whisky parfait.
Plate Art
The Kitchen
Ingredients for the Day
Decisions Before the Meal
The Menu
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